BLUE HARE MAGAZINE




The British tea habit—a look behind the cuppa


[MOTHER’S DAY IDEA]   

Authors, poets, and philosophers have all documented the complicated, enduring, and all-encompassing relationship between a cup of tea and the people of the British Isles:

“You can never get a cup of tea large enough or a book long enough to suit me.” – C.S. Lewis

“Dad was at his desk when I opened the door, doing what all British people do when they’re freaked out: drinking tea.” – Rachel Hawkins, Demonglass

“There are few hours in life more agreeable than the hour dedicated to the ceremony known as afternoon tea.” – Henry James, The Portrait of a Lady

Tea, a drink for all occasions

The British consume 60 billion cups of tea annually, according to the Tea and Infusions Organisation. That’s more than 900 cups for every man, woman, and child. To the British, tea is a beverage and so much more.  Guests to one’s home are always offered tea. The British serve tea in times of crisis and celebration, and at just about any other time as well. A ‘cuppa’ is said to solve all problems.  It is a ritual, a comfort, a habit, an ice-breaker, a kindness.  As David Walliams, the British actor and author, writes in his novel for children, Mr. Stink:

“In Britain, a cup of tea is the answer to every problem. Fallen off your bicycle? Nice cup of tea. Your house has been destroyed by a meteorite? Nice cup of tea and a biscuit. Your entire family has been eaten by a Tyrannosaurus Rex that has travelled through a space/time portal? Nice cup of tea and a piece of cake. Possibly a savoury option would be welcome here too, for example a Scotch egg or a sausage roll.”

Thirty years ago, one of our editors took her then-boyfriend home to announce to her British parents that he had proposed marriage.  “I’ll put the kettle on,” were the first words her mother uttered.

Thank Portugal for the British tea tradition

Catherine de Braganza, the Portuguese wife of King Charles II, helped popularize tea drinking in the 1660s.  At the time, coffee was far more popular than tea, with coffee houses appearing as early as the mid-1600s.  Tea gained in popularity and by 1750 it had become the favored drink of the lower classes. But by the mid-18th century, tea was taxed as high as 119% so only the aristocracy and the wealthy could afford it.

Afternoon tea becomes a social event

Afternoon tea is a relatively new tradition.  It first appeared around 1840 when Anna, the seventh Duchess of Bedford, would become hungry around four o’clock in the afternoon. With the evening meal being served fashionably late at eight o’clock, this left many hours between lunch and dinner. The Duchess asked that a tray of tea, bread and butter, and cake be brought to her room during the late afternoon. She made this a habit and soon began inviting friends to join her.

Anna Russell, Duchess of Bedford

This pause for tea soon became a fashionable social event among the aristocracy. During the 1880s, upper-class and society women would change into long gowns, gloves, and hats for afternoon tea. Teas was usually served in the drawing room between four and five o’clock.

Traditional afternoon tea included a selection of dainty sandwiches and scones served with clotted cream and preserves. Tea was typically poured from silver tea pots into delicate bone china cups.  Today, afternoon tea for most Brits is likely to be a biscuit or small cake and a mug of tea…minus the gowns, the gloves, and the silver tea pots.

So, what’s in that cup?

Most of the tea consumed in Britain is a blend of Chinese, Indian, and African origins.

Teas from China

China is known as the birthplace of tea. For hundreds of years China produced the only teas known to the western world. With some exceptions—such as Lapsang Souchong, Gunpowder and Keemun—most teas from China are not easily found in the general marketplace.

Teas in South Asia

Indian and Sri Lanka (Ceylon) India is one of the main tea growers, with 566,660 hectares under cultivation. It exports more than 12% of the world’s tea. Sri Lanka has 187,935 hectares under cultivation and accounts for 17% of world exports. The first commercially produced teas were raised from seeds brought from China. By the 1840s, India was producing regular shipments for sale at auction in London. Gradually the planting of estates spread throughout India from Nilgiri in the south to Darjeeling in the north.

Well known Indian teas are Assam, a major growing area, that stretches from the Himalayas down to the Bay of Bengal. It has a robust flavor and is bright with a smooth, malt pungency.  These teas are used in popular everyday blends because of their full-bodied richness.  Darjeeling comes from a small territory in the north and has a light and delicate flavor and aroma with undertones of muscatel. All crops are very high quality.  In 1972, the island then known as Ceylon reverted to its traditional name of Sri Lanka. Sri Lanka retained the name Ceylon for marketing its teas. Tea is grown on low, middle, and high grounds. Each produces teas with unique characteristics, and is blended in different combinations to produce brisk, full flavors.

Africa growing in importance

Africa, now a major force in world tea, produces teas of high quality and bright color that are used for blending worldwide. Tea producing countries include Kenya, Malawi, Tanzania, Zimbabwe, and South Africa. They produce about 30% of world exports amounting to some 514,742 tons of tea.

There’s even more to know about tea

Approximately 90% of the popular teas sold in Britain are blends.  For example, the PG Tips box states that its tea is a blend of Assam, African and Ceylon teas. Each blend has its own recipe and that recipe is the company’s trade secret.

When you hear the term “single-origin” the tea is most likely to be Assam, Darjeeling, Keemun, Yunnan, and Ceylon.  It may be marketed as “first flush”, “second flush” or infused with herbs or flowers.  It may also be labeled “orange pekoe,” which is not a type but a grade of tea. The best grades contain only the bud and one or two adjacent leaves.  The “orange” in orange pekoe is sometimes mistakenly believed to mean the tea has been flavored with orange, orange oils, or is otherwise associated with oranges. However the word “orange” is unrelated to the tea’s flavor.

So what do Brits actually drink? The most popular brands of tea in the U.K.

Favorite British teas

The Telegraph conducted an online straw poll to determine the most favored tea brand in England. Taylor’s of Harrogate’s Yorkshire Tea topped the list, followed by Twinings Everyday; Clipper, a relative newcomer fairtrade and organic tea brand; PG Tips, which styles itself as “England’s No. 1 Tea.”; and Typhoo, which is a rich, full-bodied tea. Among those, English Breakfast is the most popular type of tea. The traditional tea habit is facing stiff competition from premium coffees. It has responded through innovations and brand extensions.

While the relaxing and luxurious afternoon tea is synonymous with Britain, the country’s daily tea habit is generally not that high-minded.  Tea can be grabbed in a mug while getting ready for work in the morning. Hole-in-the-wall establishments will pour a cup to go from a huge urn.  Offices have tea vending machines. (Yes, really.)  Cricket matches have scheduled breaks for tea and sandwiches.  James Bond drinks tea and so does his American sidekick, Felix Leiter.

Jack Lord and Sean Connery filming Dr. No

How sweet you like your tea says something about you.

In England, tea is enjoyed with milk and sugar, or just milk or with lemon or simply served black. The amount of sugar a person puts in their tea may reveal their economic and social status.  A 2015 study cited by The Independent reported that people in the lowest income bracket are twice as likely to take two or more sugars in their tea than those with the highest incomes. In case you’re wondering, Yorkshire (“home” to Downton Abbey) is the largest sugar shunner in the nation.

This statistic displays how individuals in the United Kingdom prefer to take their tea in 2016. Of respondents, over 34 percent take their tea with milk and no sugar. A further 16 percent prefer to take their tea with milk and two or more sugars.

High tea, low tea, cream tea, or tea as dinner?

Although each of these meals is all about the tea, it’s when the tea is served and what it is served with that differentiates them.

Low tea

Low tea is another name for afternoon tea. It was served around four o’clock. People would typically serve loose tea in a teapot, scones with cream and jam, delicate sandwiches, and assorted cakes and pastries. It was served on low tables near sofas and chairs. Today traditional afternoon tea is more of a special occasion. It is served on linen covered tables. A tiered stand displays the food being offered.

High tea

High tea is not fancy, and is often confused with afternoon tea. High tea was the working man’s dinner. The custom originated in the Edwardian days when the upper classes had afternoon tea at 4:30 pm and dinner at 8:00 pm. Working class people did not have time for a leisurely round of snacks between lunch and dinner. They were working in the afternoon and needed a larger meal when they returned home. That meal was often served on a high table, so came to be known as high tea. It consisted of cold meats or meat pies, like Shepherd’s pie, fish (pickled salmon), vegetables (potatoes, onion cakes), cakes, and sandwiches. Today many residents of the Britain and Ireland still call their supper “tea.”

Cream tea

Cream teas feature scones and cream and jam just as low tea does.  However, cream teas are comprised of only the scones and cream and they are elevated to an art form.  The scones are typically served warm because they have just been baked. The cream is clotted (not whipped).  The Devonshire Cream Tea is famous world-wide. It consists of scones, strawberry jam and the vital ingredient, Devon clotted cream, as well as cups of hot tea served in china teacups. Many of the other counties in England’s west country—Dorset, Cornwall, and Somerset—also claim the best cream teas.


If you find yourself in England…

When in England there are many ways to share the Brits’ passion for tea.

Many of the higher end department stores serve afternoon and high tea.  One of those department stores—the venerable Fortnum & Mason—has been in business for more than 300 years. It serves afternoon and high tea, much to the delight of one Chicago family. They became so entranced with afternoon teas that they record their visits on a blog called HighTea.com. Of course their tea at Fortnum & Mason is included.

Leading (and offbeat) London hotels serve afternoon tea

Start with Brown’s, The Ritz and Claridge’s.

Brown’s Hotel

Agatha Christie was a regular guest at the historic Brown’s Hotel;  Queen Victoria loved to take tea there as well. Today it is still the place for the definitive Afternoon Tea in London.  Brown’s serves Afternoon Tea in the English Tea Room, with its original wood paneling and antique fireplaces. More than 17 teas are offered — including Brown’s own blend — as is a selection of sandwiches, scones, cakes, and pastries.

The Ritz

Tea at The Ritz is served in the spectacular Palm Court. High walls of gleaming mirrors, romantic birdcage chandeliers and a soaring, vibrant floral display complete the picture.

Claridge’s

Claridge’s describes their traditional afternoon tea as a choice of 24 teas from all over the world. They offer a delicious array of finger sandwiches, freshly baked raisin and apple scones with Marco Polo jelly and Cornish clotted cream and a selection of sweet pastries.

Afternoon tea in a country house

Lainston House Afternoon Tea

If you would like a Downton Abbey experience, you can visit any number of country houses that have been turned into hotels. There you can enjoy full afternoon teas in comfortable rooms, while overlooking the grounds and English countryside.

Located near Windsor Castle and the Ascot Race Course, Pennyhill Park in Surrey was once the home of Prince Arthur, favorite son of Queen Victoria. You can enjoy tea in the Ascot Bar or on the terrace when the sun shines.

Further afield, Fawsley Hall Hotel & Spa in Northamptonshire is a beautiful country house hotel surrounded by formal gardens and parkland landscaped by Capability Brown in the 1760s. Henry VIII, Elizabeth I and other monarchs all enjoyed its fine hospitality.  Take tea by the window of the Tudor Great Hall, overlooking the pasture and the Church of St Mary.

Lainston House, a 17th Century country house in Winchester, is now a hotel and serves a luxury afternoon tea every day, all year round.

Have your own tea party, Alice.

Enjoying afternoon tea while perched on a gilded hotel armchair is a fine British tradition, but hardly sustainable as a regular pursuit. Throwing your own afternoon tea party means you can stick to your own budget, plus you can select your favourite finger food.”

BBC Good Food’s article, “How to throw an afternoon tea party” offers a useful plan for holding your own afternoon tea party. It covers the equipment (tiered cake stand, teapot and cups), the foods to serve (sandwiches, a layer of cakes, and a layer of scones or teacakes and buns, and jam, particularly strawberry jam), and includes a number of recipes. Guests should be offered a selection of teas, although Darjeeling is traditional for afternoon tea.

Resources

There are dozens of books on hosting your own afternoon tea at home.

In Afternoon Tea at Home, pastry chef Will Torrent shares a brief history of afternoon tea and how it came to be such a British institution. He goes on to share recipes for basic jams, spreads, butters, and curds – everything you might need for a carefully planned afternoon tea.

If you would like to transport yourself virtually to an English manor, try “Afternoon Tea: Downton Abbey Style Afternoon Tea Inspiration and How to Host the Perfect Afternoon Tea Party at Your Home”.

Taking Tea: Favorite Recipes from Notable Tea Rooms. The author describes 18 must-visit places for afternoon tea in the United States―from luxury hotels to independently owned tearooms—with brief accounts that acquaint readers with each venue. It also includes recipes for scones, savories, and sweets from these first-class tearooms, along with recommended tea pairings.

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